Total time:50 mins
Servings:7 (makes about 7 1/2 cups)
With that in mind, all this month and periodically throughout the year I will dedicate this column to exploring nourishing recipes from world cuisines which might not typically make the health headlines, shining a light on cookbook authors who represent those cuisines.
In the coming weeks you’ll get healthful dishes from India, Mexico, Ghana, and North American indigenous culinary traditions, each of which, in keeping with how I typically roll in the kitchen, are quick and simple to prepare, but offer a wow factor of flavor and nourishment. Of course there is no one recipe that could reflect the entirety of any culture’s cuisine, and every country comprises micro cultures which each have unique food traditions. The idea isn’t to distill that wealth of variety into a single dish but rather to offer a taste of healthful foods from around the world to inspire you to explore further.
First up, this mouthwatering, plant-powered curry from Meera Sodha’s book “Fresh India,” a nutritious, weeknight-friendly dinner that dispels any notion you may have of Indian food being heavy or complicated, and highlights the extraordinary tradition of India’s vegetarian cuisine. Sodha is from Gujarat, a small state on the country’s western coast where, she explains in her book’s introduction, “over thousands of years, a rich and resourceful vegetable-first way of cooking has evolved.”
Her take on chana saag, a dish she says is almost as popular in England, where she lives now, as it is in India, is especially convenient and fresh-tasting. It brims with healthful flavor from aromatic spices, is packed with protein-rich chickpeas, savory tomatoes and piles of just-wilted fresh spinach. This one-pot stew comes together in under an hour and tastes even better the next day.
I couldn’t agree more with what Sodha expressed to me via email: “If readers are looking to eat a more plant-based diet to put vegetables at the centre of their meals and for a myriad of ways to cook them simply and deliciously, I think India is a great place to look.”
I couldn’t agree more. And this dish, I’ll add, is a great place to start.
Chana Saag (Spinach, Tomato and Chickpea Curry)
Storage: Refrigerate for up to 4 days.
Where to Buy: Kashmiri chile and black mustard seeds can be found at well-stocked supermarkets, Indian markets or online.
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- 3 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed
- 1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 2 large yellow onions (1 1/2 pounds total), diced
- 5 medium cloves garlic, minced or finely grated
- 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
- One (14-ounce) can plum tomatoes, with their juices
- 3/4 cup water
- Two (15-ounce) cans no-salt-added chickpeas, drained and rinsed
- 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
- 1 teaspoon ground Kashmiri chile (may substitute 3/4 teaspoon smoked paprika and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper)
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1 pound baby spinach
- Plain whole-milk or reduced-fat yogurt, for serving (optional)
In a very large, wide, lidded pot over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the mustard and cumin seeds and cook, stirring, until they begin to pop, about 30 seconds.
Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes more. Add the tomatoes and their juices, crushing each tomato by hand as you add it to the pot, then stir in the water.
Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chickpeas, coriander, ground chile, salt and turmeric to incorporate. Working in batches, if needed, add the spinach, letting it wilt so you can stir it into the mixture before adding more spinach. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the spinach is soft and tender, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat, ladle into bowls and serve, topped with a dollop of yogurt, if desired.
Per serving (generous 1 cup)
Calories: 214; Total Fat: 8 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 590 mg; Carbohydrates: 27 g; Dietary Fiber: 7 g; Sugar: 2 g; Protein: 9 g
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
Adapted from “Fresh India” by Meera Sodha (Flatiron Books, 2018).
Tested by Rachel Sadon; email questions to [email protected].
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